Heat a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat for about 10 minutes. Lightly beat the eggs with a fork. Add the butter to the pan and when it's melted, add the eggs.

Stir almost continuously with a wooden spoon as the creamy curds form. Continue cooking until the eggs are nearly done. Add the cheese, stir to loosely incorporate and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt - as ever, the right amount of salt will lift the eggs from bland and creamy to a glorious unity of wonderful flavour. I like to add the pepper at the table, after the eggs have been served, otherwise it makes the food look muddy. After plating, add a dollop of mascarpone and sprinkle over the fresh basil.